Front Suspension                                                                                         FAQ Home
 Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/90 Cars                                                                                                                     Version 5.0
Front Wheel Bearing and Two-Part Hub Rebuild

Clunk in Front End

Front Crossmember Cracks; Starter Cable Shorts

Strut Replacement

Ball Joints and Tie Rods Replacement

Camber Adjustment

Wheel Alignment and Spring Sag

Upper Strut Mount Bearings

Broken Spring Seat Tray

Bushing Inspection Notes

Radius Arm Bushing Replacement

Lower Chassis Brace

Upper and Lower Chassis Braces

Sway Bar Installation

Rusted and Stuck Bolts: Removal Techniques


Front Wheel Bearing and Two-Part Hub Rebuild.  [Query:] I would appreciate anyone's input as to experience with alternatives to Volvo's idea of spending 240.00 US in parts to replace a wheel bearing of the simple ball-bearing type. Aftermarket sources? Rebuilts? Bearing kits? [Response 1: John Kaiser] Your bearing or hub assy. is pretty expensive from the dealer. Unlike the earlier 740s these are not supposed to be serviced. They do go bad once in a while. Check with a good import parts place
because this hub you need is available through the aftermarket.
[Response 2:  Tim re: earlier hubs] Take the bearing out and look on the side, you will see the bearing number. March off to the local parts shop, almost any will do and ask for a bearing of the same type number. You can start with the listing for Volvo and then make sure it matches the number you took off.  There are not that many tapered bearing makers in the world and the local parts guys usually stock the individual bearings not the kits like Volvo. Done it many times on Volvos and MBs. Just reuse the
 other bits and pieces.  [Editor's Note: later hubs are not rebuildable.]

Clunk in Front End. The two "most common" areas of clunkiness, if you will, on the 700 series are: Worn ball joint - Being ungreasable, these can deteriorate and cause the strut assembly to have play at the base of the strut cartridge. Not necessarily detectable through the bounce test but under vehicle load (dynamic), it can show up (audible). Correction: replace ball joint(s).- Worn/broken upper shock mounting - the large rubber doughnut inside of the mount can be split and there'd be no visible signs of it's demise except when removed. However, the warning sign of this is not usually a clunking under straight line driving or under the bounce test. It shows up under low speed cornering as a mild "clunk" at or close to full steering lock. However, my experience was that as it got worse, it did start to emit audible warning under driving load.

Note: the infamous "bounce test" is NOT an accurate way to pinpoint any front end/shock/strut problems. Remember, that as you are bouncing the front, you are really having to "defeat" the spring strength first (since they are what's holding up the vehicle under it's own weight) before any other problem areas will show up. This usually takes dynamic (moving) loads to recreate. Other sources to look at:

[Diagnosis comments, again on "clunk" in front end:] If your problem is not the spacer in the bottom of the strut tube, then it is time to start inspecting all of the front suspension. Check the sway bar bushings - both the ones at the end link and the ones that fasten the sway bar to the front frame rails. Check the control arm rear bushings - sometimes their deterioration is not evident and takes a large pry bar to see the problem. Also, inspect ball joints (they are spring loaded for wear, so need large channel locks to squeeze to check play), outer tie rod ends and also the inner tie rod ends, though these will probably not clunk when pressing down on front end. Try reaching over tire and putting hand around front strut while someone bounces front end to see if you can 'feel' the clunk. Did you already try tightening the big nuts that hold the shocks in the strut tubes? And if they are tight against the top of the strut, it is likely that you need to disassemble and install the spacers. When they are tight, there should still be several threads showing. Also don't overlook the upper strut mounts/bearings. If the rubber is cracked and pulling away from the metal bearing in the center, consider replacing. Suspension is likely the problem, but also check the wheel and bearing. These are usually low speed clunks, but are potentially more dangerous.

Sorry to point out the whole blamed front end, but as I said, it could be anything... you just need to study each of the components and figure out which you want to attack first. If you have original shocks or just about anything with over, say, 50k miles (Bilsteins maybe higher mileage), I'd suspect the shocks first.

Front Crossmember Cracks; Starter Cable Shorts.  [Technical Note from UK Volvo Club, 700 Section] I have also been advised that there have been more than a few cases of Volvo 700/900's generating hairline cracks in the front crossmember, right next to the part where the lower suspension arm bolts on. These often go undetected because of dirt and in any case the paint has to be cleaned off to spot them for sure. Also on 700's the same crossmember has the heavy battery-to-starter cable running over its nearside front edge. These were the subject of a recall some years ago as they chafed, leading to a big electrical short (and under-bonnet fires in some cases). Apparently, most cars were caught, but the odd unmodified one must still be about. The recall modification involved 'fitting a sheathed clip, which lifted the lead away from the cross-member. It's screwed to the nearside front cross-member inside the fixing point of the lower suspension arm.

Strut Replacement.
Need for Strut Replacement.  [Comments from Ken Dibnah] I spent part of a day replacing the front struts on my 940 SE with a pair of Boge Pro Gas that I bought from IPD.  When last visited, I had replaced my Nivomats (I have IRS) and lo and behold, I found that not only had I realized my hope of a more controlled/compliant ride, but the rear end stayed where it was supposed to, following the front end obediently instead of hanging wwwaaaaayyyyyy out on wet, powered corners (myself being somewhat confused in my expectations as I returned to the world of rear drive from my 2 year sojourn amongst those who are pulled through life, I thought those swings were part of the charm of the car).

Results were disappointing at first - didn't see too much improvement on the test drive, and the car sat an inch or so higher in the front , I think. Seemed smoother, but not remarkably so. Difference really showed up on the drive home. Had to do some serious braking, (to avoid an SUV!) and the control was remarkable. Usually, wet, heavy braking had the ABS hammering away, and not anymore! Wheels stick to the ground and don't hop about like they used to, cornering is much flatter, and rough roads (like the camel track known as the Stanley Park Causeway) ae actually bearable again - the glove box stays closed and you can hear the radio!

So get out and change those shocks. The 'bounce check' just does not reveal flaws. If your car is high mileage your shocks are worn out, even if it 'bounces' as it is supposed to. My old struts, you could just push 'em in and pull 'em out, no damping. The shafts were polished like glass with no machine marks visible. They aren't visible and they are expensive, but shocks have made the most remarkable difference in the car's handling.  Change those shocks! (I don't sell 'em, by the way)

Tips and Procedural Notes. [Courtesy of Jim Burton, via Joel Reiter's Volvo homepage.]

[Problem: The struts on the 740 are giving out. Has anyone replaced them DIY. how tough is it, what tools are required, and are there any bushings or other things to replace while I am in there?]

[Response:] I just replaced all the struts/shocks on our 87 and 88 740's. I used KYB because I got a great deal on them, but I'm not sure I would buy them again. The job is not bad, just long. You will need a spring compressor and a good set of 1/2 inch drive metric sockets, a 3 pound sledge hammer, a crowbar, Loctite Blue, a large pipewrench, and the remainder of a good tool chest. I don't have time to tell you how to do it in detail, but here are the areas you should watch for (not in any special order).

There is a loose washer/spacer in the bottom of the strut tube. Make sure this goes back in exactly the same way it was before. If it flips to the other side, you will not be able to make enough turns on the top nut that holds the strut insert in the tube. This one took me forever to figure out what was wrong.

When disassembling the outer tie rod ball joints, take off the nuts, apply some liquid wrench, and let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Then whack it with the 3 pound sledge hammer. A few whacks should loosen it. If you can't get it that way, you must drive a balljoint separator between the a-arm and the ball joint. This usually destroys the boot on the ball joint, so have spares ($26 each) available. Use anti-seize on the new ball joints. After you complete the job, get it professionally aligned. Take some of that money you saved and do something fun the next weekend. After all, you just spent all day Saturday working on the car when you told your wife it would only be 4 hours tops.

[Another Tip from RC] I replaced the front strut cartridges myself about a year ago in my 88 760 and found the job easier than had been with my previous 240 for the reason that in the case of the 760, I didn't have to disconnect the brake lines from the strut assembly. As I recall, I went through the following steps:

    Inside the engine compartment, you'll notice that the top of the strut assembly has 2 bolts which secure the strut/spring assembly to the chassis. These 2 bolts are all you need removed to allow the assembly to pull out from the top and then swing outwards with its base still secured.
    BEFORE you remove these 2 bolts you'll need:
    a- a spring compressor which you should be able to borrow at an automotive parts store, and if that's not available to you, to rent from almost any rental shop.
    b- an air impact wrench to loosen the large nut at the top of the strut or the piston rod. This nut is not impossible to remove with conventional wrenches if you have a box-end that'll reach deep enough to allow you to hold the top of the rod from turning. The impact wrench will handle the job without having to prevent the shaft (or rod) from turning. An alternative if you don't have an air tools, is to stop by a tire shop or any place that has air wrenches and get them to simply loosen that centre nut for you. Then you can take the car back home and, at the proper step, remove the nut with a wrench. You can do the same for the re-install and have them torque it down for you.
    Remove the front wheel.
    Remove the bolts from the bracket that secure the brake hoses to the wheel well.
    Disconnect the stabilizer bar (this is to allow the wheel assembly to drop sufficiently. I can't remember if I also disconnected the tie-rod end.
    Secure a piece of haywire or its equivalent to the top of the strut assembly and to the car chassis inside the wheel well so that when you remove the 2 nuts from the engine compartment, the assembly is not allowed to swing out more than about a foot. Any more of a swing-out than that will result in damage to the brake lines. Also, using a piece of masking tape, mark out the location of the 2 top nuts. This sets part of your wheel alignment (castor, I believe).
    Remove the 2 nuts inside the engine compartment.
    Swing out the assembly and compress the spring.
    Once the spring is compressed sufficiently to remove the pressure against the top plate, remove the large centre nut. You can now pull out the spring. [Additional tip from Simon:] After the spring compression, make a record of the sequence of strut support, bearing and cover, rubber mold, washer, etc. and which way they are positioned. It is easy to disassemble, but assembling must be in the right sequence and position. You can figure it out if you forget the sequence, but why waste the time.
    With the spring out of the way, all that's left to do is to remove the large flat nut that holds the cartridge in place. A large pipe wrench will do in a pinch or you can simply tap it unscrewed with a chisel. Be carefull on the reinstall that you do not make contact with the piston rod. Treat it as if it were made of glass.
    Pull out the insert, put the new one in. Simple as that!
    [Additional tip from Simon:] Consider lubricating the strut bearing. These are loose ball bearings held with a cup/plate. In my car, the bearing assembly can be opened easily.
    Reverse the process for reinstall.
One word of caution: treat the compressed spring with respect. If the spring compressor ever lets go, you have got a lot of energy to contend with.

Ball Joints and Tie Rods Replacement. [Question:]Are there any tricks to changing this? I suppose it's a good idea to change the tie rod ends with this job. [Answer:] It will take a few hours (if you're doing this first time), and you will need the following tools: I suggest you change both tie rod ends - First, if one is shot the other one is probably on it's way, and second - they're cheap. You'll probably pay more for the tracking than you will for both ends.


The procedure is rather simple. The end connects to the strut with a conical 'rod' locked with a nut, and the tie rod screws into the end and also has a locking nut. Either one of these nuts can be difficult to remove - - so here's how.

First, jack up the side you're working on and remove the road wheel. Using the 22mm (I think) spanner, release the locking nut on the tie rod (the one that locks the rod to the end). This may be quite difficult, but since the end is still bolted to the strut, it will not turn so this is easier. Sometimes the tie rod turns with the nut, in which case:

Using a socket, release the nut that locks the ball joint to the strut. You can expect this nut to be quite stuck as well. If you let the steering rack move to full lock, you'll have something to push against. Remove this nut completely. The ball joint must now be removed from the strut. And, it will probably be stuck as well... So, just use the bottle jack to hold the strut - put it under the bits that the ball joint is in, as close as possible to the ball joint, and lift it a bit - just enough for the jack to take the weight. Then hit the stud on the ball joint - sooner or later, it will pop out.

When you have the ball joint free, remove it from the tie rod, and count the number of turns. Then, put on the new one, with the same number of turns. This will set the tracking close enough so you can drive the car to the garage for accurate tracking - it's *not* good enough to keep.

Put the ball joint in the strut, and tighten the locking nut. The ball joint may turn in it's hole, so use the locking pliers to apply a *bit* of pressure to it while you tighten. Once it 'catches' it's usually OK.

Tighten the tie rod locking nut - this time, use two spanners, one on the nut and one on the tie rod end. The easier method is only good for a ball joint you're about to throw away.

Refit road wheel, and repeat for other side - and that's it! You're done - but don't forget to have the tracking done.

Camber Adjustment.  [Tip from John O] Volvo's revised this procedure in their latest suspension manual (several years old now) and IF you're presently in a shop and on an alignment rack, it's easier than that. While on the alignment rack and doing the alignment, you remove the front upper strut nut (holding the upper strut plate to the body), then take a hammer and pound the stud out of that plate. Loosen the rear nut, then (with a pry bar) move the strut (like a 200 series car) until the camber is right (you can get it perfect), then drill through the upper strut plate using the front body hole as your template and install a new bolt and nut. I've done it many times and it's a piece of cake, but I wouldn't even consider messing with this unless you're actually the technician doing the alignment yourself. I'm just saying that it can be done and it's no big deal. Caster's yet another story.

Wheel Alignment and Spring Sag.  [Tip from "Servicing Coil Springs," Brake and Front End Magazine, Jan 2000) Itís imperative that you make a ride-height check part of your pre-alignment inspection along with all the usual ball joint, tie rod, tire, and other examinations. Specs can be hard to find in repair manuals, and OEM methods of checking ride height are not always easy. The aftermarket has stepped in and spring manufacturers now have charts (available at your jobber) to easily measure ride height, with all the specs right on one chart.

While you will occasionally find a broken spring, or someone who wants an upgrade, the main reason that youíll be replacing springs is to restore lost ride height. Ride height is critical to proper alignment angles, both front and rear. Trucks carrying heavy loads can benefit from spring upgrades, such as variable-rate springs.

Spring spacers can hardly be considered a professional solution to a worn out spring. Spacers placed between the coils of a spring may restore ride height, but they cannot restore the spring rate. They can cause everything from spring breakage to coil bind and a harsh ride. If a customer insists on the installation of spring spacers to "cure" a bad spring, send him down the road.

On unequal-length, control-arm suspensions, a ride height too low will result in camber being more positive. Keep in mind also that a truck that sags in the rear will also increase front caster angles. This is because the sagging rear effectively moves the top pivot point of the front suspension (upper ball joint location on a control arm-type suspension) rearward, which obviously tilts the steering axis rearward, increasing caster. Furthermore, uneven ride height across the vehicle (left to right) can cause a steering pull.

Donít forget that a sagging rear spring can also cause a ride height change in the front of the car. Careful measurements are needed at all four corners because it is possible for just one spring to be weak. This can cause a ride height difference diagonally, where the left rear corner, for example, is low, the right front may actually be high.

Check the jounce bumpers for signs of frequent or harsh bottoming. Damaged bumpers should be replaced. Frequent bottoming is hard on the entire  suspension and may be a result of vehicle overloading. If this type of problem is found, it may be a good time to sell the customer an upgrade to variable-rate springs. These springs are wound so that the spring rate becomes higher as the spring is compressed.  This gives a reasonable compromise between ride and load-carrying ability.

Upper Strut Mount Bearings.  [Query:] After replacing struts, ball joints and all bushings, the front end still feels loose.  I've narrowed it down to the upper strut bearings. With a spring compressor, how big a job is this?  [Response 1: Keith LaCrosse] Just replaced the struts and bearings in the my 960 this morning. With the proper spring compressor it is not really that hard. I used the Volvo manual for the step by step procedure and it was not bad. Sequence was to Jack and support car, remove wheel, remove tierod end (use pickle fork), remove upper nut/bushing on swaybar, remove brake hose support bracket, once that was all done support the assembly with a jack and loosen the upper bearing plate nuts. Once those were removed let the jack down and the whole strut will lower from the housing. You will have to force the the strut assembly down to clear the fender well, once out it needs to have some suppport so it is not flopping around. You then put on the spring compressor and compress the spring. Once that is done you can remove the large (15/16) nut on the sturt and remove the upper bearing plate. Assembly is, as they say, the reverse.
Hints I learned: Loosen the large 15/16 nut before you have the strut assembly out, be careful not to loosen the nut to much or the spring will explode with some force (I only did that once a long time ago)
If you are going to remove the strut also I reach up between the coils of the spring and loosen the 55mm or so nut that holds the strut in the tube.

Broken Spring Seat Tray. Volvo makes a spring seat repair kit. They come in pairs.You pull the strut assembly. Remove the spring with compressors. Remove the strut. Then, you measure and cut the old seat flange at a certain measured spot from the bottom or top with a air cutoff tool (or hacksaw). Then the new spring seat is spot welded in 2-3 places to the strut housing. The spring seat has a couple U grooves in it... There are fingers on the new seat that slide in these grooves to lock into place and determine the height.

Bushing Inspection Notes.  [Tips from John Kupiec:] My contribution to the 700 series busing replacement thread:  As some list members know, I recently rebuilt the suspension of my 744T.  Since the car was 13 model years and 167K miles old at the time of  rebuild, I anticipated a complete bushing replacement, and planned accordingly by purchasing a complete bushing kit. To my surprise, the only bushings that required replacement were the strut rod bushings. All other bushings tested out fine in the "pry bar test". 45 minutes of up close and personal inspection with two sets of trained eyeballs and a pry bar showed all bushings (even the rear link bushings) to be fine, with the exception of the strut rod bushings. What we did find was one strut rod with significant corrosion on the front end, significant enough to merit replacement of the entire strut rod.

1. If you have the opportunity, put the car up on a lift and perform a bushing inspection before you buy replacements. If possible, do it with someone who is experienced with Volvos and 700 series in particular.
2. If you do not have the opportunity to follow suggestion 1, make sure you purchase your bushings from a retailer who will allow you to return the ones you do not need (Thank you, IPD!)
Information I have obtained from other 700 series owners is that replacement of the strut rod bushings is almost a certainty. Replacement of other bushings depends on the age of the car, road conditions, driver's habits, etc.

Radius Arm Bushing Replacement. [Editor's Note on Symptoms Evidencing Need for Replacement: See Brakes Pull When Applied]

Detailed Procedure for Control Rod Bushing Replacement.  [Editor's Note: This four-piece conical bushing set is the big wear item in your front end.  Usually this is all that is required; the rear control rod round bushing does not wear as quickly.]  [Tips from Rod Johnson]  I noticed that my 740 had steering looseness and the condition of the strut rod bushings was bad.  Both sides were badly split, and the right side was extremely sloppy in the lower control arm.  I could move it about a half inch, just by pushing on the wheel.
So to the main crux of this post (how to replace the conical bushings)
I found a strut rod bushing kit on a well known internet auction site, and for $51 delivered, I was ready to install them.   I've not done this before on a Volvo, but I do have many years of experience working on automobiles in general.  It took me just over an hour to complete the job, after I had the car on the stands.   You will need two long breaker bars (one about 18" minimum) and a 22mm and a 15 mm  1/2" drive socket.  A ratchet will speed things up when you finally get the bolts loose.  A pry bar and small hammer may also be useful.
Jack up the car and place it on jack stands or other suitable supports under the control arm (not the strut or radius rod).  All work is done from under the car, and considerable force is needed to get the bolts to come loose, so if you consider yourself a bit on the 'weak' side, get a 24" breaker bar.   You do not need to remove the wheels or any other parts.   The rear end of the strut rod is a round bushing with a bolt going through the frame mount and the bushing.  The nut is probably coated with undercoating, so you will need to clean some of it off to get the 22mm socket over the nut, or just hammer the socket over the undercoating like I did.
The head of the bolt is a 15mm hex (and again heavily undercoated on my car),  so you will need a second socket, or long  box end wrench (don't even think of using an adjustable wrench on these-you will need a very  good fitting socket.  If you have a 6 point socket, find it and use it).  Again, the undercoating is the biggest issue here.
Brace yourself against the frame of the car and break the nut loose, then use the ratchet to get it off the bolt, and make sure the bolt is loose in the bushing.  If it is corroded, you will need to get it free before attempting the next step.
Now go to the front end of the strut rod, and look where it comes through the lower control arm.  Under that gob of undercoating, is another 15mm hex bolt, which screws into the end of the strut rod, clamping the bushings into the strut rod.
Using the long breaker bar and the 15mm socket again, remove the bolt and outer bushing. Now remove the rear bolt completely from the frame mount.  Pry the rear end of the strut rod down and out of the mounting bracket, and slide it to the rear and out of the control arm.  Remove the remaining half of the front strut rod bushing.
That wasn't so bas was it...?
The only thing to consider when re-installing the parts is to be sure to clean the threads of all the nuts and bolts, just in case there are some deformed threads or rust.  I would suggest some 'Lock-tite' (or other brand) bolt retainer on this mounting hardware.  On the replacement bushings, usually the part numbers go toward the large support washers.
Now replace the strut rod, with the new bushings, back into the lower control arm, and get the front bolt started.  Then pry the rear bushing back up into the frame mount (you might need a small hammer or mallet here) and pry it forward to line up the bolt hole with the mounting bracket.  Insert the mounting bolt, install the nut, and tighten both the front and rear bolts. [Tip from JohnB]  Here's a useful trick if you can't get that end bolt to start with the new bushings in there...take off the bolt that holds the sway bar link to the strut control arm (same thread...longer bolt!) and use that bolt to start/compress the new cone bushings. Then unscrew the long bolt and put the correct bolt in with loctite.   [Tip from Paul] After replacing the strut rod bushings (also known as cone bushings because of their shape) it is better to lightly snug the fastening nuts while the front end is supported off the ground.  Then lower the front end back to earth and tighten the nuts to the specified torque.  The reason for doing this is so that the bushings can find their "sweet spot" or neutral setting in the position that they will spend 99% of their time in.  If you torque them up with the front strut arms hanging down and then lower the car to the ground it is possible that there is tension in the bushings as the load of the car is put on them.  This is probably something you would never feel driving the car, but it could contribute to decreased bushing life.

Do the other side the same way and take it for a test drive.  I will be willing to bet the steering feels quite a bit more precise.   You are done with your part, but now you need to contact your local friendly alignment shop to have the alignment set again, as it is probably in need of a bit of adjustment.  You have just saved yourself about $100 in labor and parts costs.

More Tips.  [Query on 89 745T:] What's the best procedure for replacement of the front suspension radius arm bushing with  minimal disassembly?  I simply removed the sway bar end link (replacing them anyway) and the bolt holding the control arm to the radius arm. So I was obviously able to get the front conical bushing out (man, was it trashed) and now I can't get enough play to clear the tube from the radius arm where it goes through the control arm.  Do I remove the radius arm from its rearward mount (to the chassis)?  [Response 1:] You have to remove the arm.
[ Query 2: ]  How about the chassis end?  [Response 2:] The rear bolt has to come out. It is the only way to get the rear bushing off.
[Query 3:] If I am replacing struts and balls joints, is it better to remove the CONTROL arm instead of the RADIUS arm?  Is it more likely that the control arm's chassis side bushing is in need of replacing vs. the RADIUS arm's? [Response 3:] Control strut bushing (the conical $20 bushing, two each per side) is the one most likely to need replacing.  BTW, IPD sells the whole front end bushing set for $130 or so...if you're replacing four conical bushings for $80 and your car has over 100k on  it, you should just bite the bullet and buy the IPD bushing kit and do them all. However, it's not trivial to replace the other front end bushings (much like the rear) - you need a press.

Lower Chassis Brace.   [Performance Tip from Joshua Ostroff]  The other day I got around to installing the lower chassis brace onto my 1994 945 turbo. I got the parts from my local dealer; cost with VCOA discount <$35.  Installation took less than 5 minutes. It was a breeze, as it only fits one way. If the threads on the mounting stud are dirty or obstructed, you may want to spray a little WD40 to clean them up before mounting the brace.
A couple of people on the brickboard asked for my impressions back when this thread last
surfaced. In my case, I had some months ago put on IPD antisway bars to replace the stock bars, and I also recently mounted winter tires, so I can't really toss the car around too much until Spring. But for now, it feels like the car has noticeably less play & lean than before. I had been told, and it stands to reason, that this mod is the most bang for the buck to improve the handling of the 700 and 900 series.
I don't have the part numbers handy for the brace, single nut and 3 bolts that you need, but I
can dig them up if anyone needs.  Thanks to Steve Seekins for the suggestion and advice!

Upper and Lower Chassis Braces.  Try for high-quality strut tower braces and lower chassis braces for 700/900 cars.

Sway Bar Installation.
Justification for Sway Bars.  [Query:] Can anyone give me the "skinny" on sway bars. Do they make for a more comfortable ride? Are all sway bars pretty much alike? I hear a lot about IPD sways. Are there any disadvantages in using them?  [Response: Warren Bain] It was the best thing I did for my 744Ti. It used to roll a lot in the turns and it had the thicker turbo bars. I bought the IPD bars and what a difference. To get the maximum benefit, upgrade the shocks, replace bushings, get better tires, better brake pads because you will find yourself driving faster in the turns. The bars will also put an increased strain on the bushings, steering rack and other parts. They are definitely worth it.  [Response: George] The bars will stiffen the ride. It will make for a better handling car but not for a more comfortable one. Your decision.

Installation.  [Query:] The IPD bars are finally on order for my 91 940T.  I am concerned about performing the installation myself (for safety reasons).  I can perform basic repairs but have never been comfortable with suspension or brake work due to the criticality of these components from a safety stand point.  Question...should I be concerned and how difficult is the installation?  Can the car be supporting its' own weight or should it be on jack stands?  {Response: Michael Jue] IPD bars are actually quite simple to install IF you have basic mechanical knowledge. If you don't wish to do this, no problem! A shop can do it quite handily and the positive change in handling is still worth it.
A few tips:

Rusted and Stuck Bolts: Removal Techniques.  [Query]  I was initially unsuccesful in removing the nut from the rear lower shock bracket on my 1990, despite penetrating oil and the old wrench + hammer technique. I guess the other trick I hear about here is using heat. Does this mean using a propane torch (the kind for sweating copper pipe)? Or something more mild like an electric heat gun? I'm a little worried about open flame near the gas tank, brake lines etc.  [Response: Phil Ellsworth]  My solution is the electric impact wrench. When I did the ASB and shocks on my  244, the wrench removed all nuts easily. (Credit to Balu Vandor for the tip). The least expensive one I've found is a 250 ft-lb unit for $69.95 at Harbor Freight.

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